Tonquin Valley Day 1: The Surprise Caribou Encounter
September 15 - 18, 2021
Coming off the high of completing the Skyline in perfect conditions, we set up camp at good ol’ Whistlers Campground to clean ourselves and re-pack in anticipation for tomorrow’s new adventure. Tonquin Valley is the second-most popular backcountry destination in Jasper National Park. The signature Ramparts tracing the continental divide towers over the pristine Amethyst Lakes marshland, home to the largest caribou herd of the last two remaining herds in Jasper.
While the highlights can be seen on a one night in-and-out route, we took our time to soak in the valley with a 4 day, 3 night itinerary over 45km.
Day 1: Astoria Trailhead to Surprise Point Campground (16.8km)
Day 2: Surprise Point Campground to Amethyst Campground (5.6km) - to be written
Day 3: Amethyst Campground to Portal Campground (14.2km) - to be written
Day 4: Portal Campground to Portal Trailhead (8.7km) - to be written
Map from Parks Canada.
Before going to bed, we set up two tents as our friends Ryan and Willow were driving up from Calgary after work and would arrive in the dark. This worked out well as they were borrowing my spare Big Agnes Frying Pan SL2 tent which hadn’t seen any action in years.
Whistlers Campground is a favorite for the constant elk activity as they munch on the grass growing around spaces recently cleared for campsites. September is rutting season, when the males compete for the females by the strength of their antlers. Even in a car, they can and will charge at you if you pause too long for photos. Fucking terrifying beasts.
Day 1: Astoria Trailhead to Surprise Point Campground (16.8km)
Selfishly, my driving force for booking 2 sites at Tonquin Valley was to simplify the transportation logistics. By having another group, we could drop off one car at Portal and take the other car to Astoria where we began the hike. Since these two trailheads are on different access roads, we would have likely needed to hitchhike 3 separate times, with the Portal section receiving almost no traffic outside of ski season.
Within only a few steps, we come upon a beautiful view of Cavell Lake and Mt Edith Cavell. I can’t believe I’ve never stopped here before.
This is Willow’s very first backpacking trip and Ryan’s second. We thank them for trusting us to be their guides. Many of the photos in this blog post are taken by them and Jimmy!
We cruised down the wide, well-maintained trail towards Astoria campground, keeping an eye out for the split in the trail that would take us towards Surprise Point via Ermite Valley. There are two ways to get to Surprise Point, but according to the map, the path towards Ermite Valley had a lot less elevation change (who wants to pass a campsite called “Switchback” if you don’t have to) and exposes more views towards glaciers overhanging Chrome Lake. No-brainer, right?
Astoria Campground has a gorgeous view of the valley below. We take a break on the picnic benches and layer up as the overhanging snow finally begins to pummel down.
The trail split was easy to spot as we needed to cross the fast-flowing glacier river we had been following. From here on this trail would be hikers-only, as the main trail can also accommodate horses. From previous backpacking experiences, horse trails are generally more unpleasant, muddy and stinky.
In hindsight the elevation and horse poop may have been more manageable than this onslaught of mud holes and precarious water crossings. At least we notified the group that waterproof boots were a MUST while we had cell service on the Skyline.
This continues for 6km and our pace has completely dropped off. Normally it’s not a huge deal if you fall into some water, but carrying a heavy backpack means you’ve got cargo that cannot get wet like sleeping bags. Your boots won’t dry if the daily high is only slightly above zero for 4 days with even more snow in the forecast. And to top it off, you’re not very nimble or balanced when swinging 20+ lbs around on your shoulders.
Seriously don’t take bridges for granted.
After numerous hours we stop for a break at this quaint little boulder field with reflective ponds that were starting to ice over for the winter. Gotta have some fun even while you’re exhausted! The mood of a group is the real energy booster.
At long last we stumble out of the bushes to a familiar rushing river. As we cross the bridge one last time, the Ermite Valley wondrously emerges.
Chrome Lake appears to be ahead of us, which was a big relief as we could finally pinpoint how far we’d come on the map and look back at the day’s progress. Clouds of snow wrapped around all of mountains, fading in and out with the late afternoon sun.
Time for more photos! While Jimmy and I are distracted hunting for the best angles, Ryan calls to us that he sees tents ahead! There’s no way I think, we’re still at least 2km away need to head uphill. There’s no campsite along this lake, though from its stunning vantage there really should be.
However I know better than to question Ryan’s eagle eye that once spotted a humpback whale ~20km inward of a shallow inlet in Newfoundland. I hoped that the trail would follow the lake more closely, but unfortunately we turn the other way before getting any closer. If we had more time and energy, I would have suggested to stay a bit longer.
Wait there really is a camp! Their tent is massive and has a smokestack jutting out. There’s even more tiny tents randomly planted in the bushes, like actually just on top of the bushes.
We speak to a guy and learn that they were hired by Parks Canada to do trail maintenance on the section we had just completed. The heavy, fancy suite and delicious-smelling food was all air lifted in, so they didn’t have to haul any of it on their backs. I am bursting with envy and relief that the next group won’t have to suffer like we did.
Towards this glacier dripping down the rock wall is the Wates-Gibson hut run by the Alpine Club of Canada. From this junction it was only 1km away, while our campsite was another 1.7km. If I were to do this hike again, I would definitely snag a booking there.
Where we were going, snow had blanketed the forest floor, dampening all sounds but the sluggish thump of our tired, heavy bootsteps. The higher we climbed the more snow filled the path, stubbornly refusing to become one with the earth. Knowing we were so close, I quicken the pace and leave my group behind, rapidly reaching Surprise Point campground.
Surprise! The tent pads are even further from this sign. Ugh…. I’m frustrated and hungry and so tired of carrying this backpack around. I make haste towards the first campsite where I dump my backpack and continue exploring the campground in hopes of having definitively selected the best site before my friends arrive.
Jimmy, Ryan and Willow continue hiking at a more reasonable pace, embracing the change in seasons.
With the help of Ryan’s eagle eyes, they spot the herd of caribou! There’s the females grazing and a huge male caribou sizing up his lady friends. Jade’s gonna be so jealous she ran off and missed this!
Oh there he goes running towards the direction of the campground. Maybe Jade will get lucky after all!
Re-energized, the group orients themselves back towards their goal of reaching the campground. Upon finding the first campsite, they spot Jade’s backpack on the ground and her footprints leading away… Shit!!!
With the weight literally lifted off my back, I had wandered past all the campsites which were completely deserted, not finding any better than the rest. My curiosity leads me to a grand clearing at the southernmost edge of Amethyst Lakes. After making it halfway to the lake, I pause to admire the darkening Ramparts for a few moments before turning around, resolving to save this view for tomorrow morning.
I notice a few interesting footprints in the fresh snow that I didn’t think were there before. Paying no mind, I hurry towards my backpack and find my crew there waiting for me as expected.
Unexpectedly, they’re completely freaking out. I learn about their run-in with the caribou herd and how the alpha male ran my way and they thought I got gored to death because I wasn’t carrying any form of defense. It might be a good time to mention that I don’t carry bear spray anyways, so at best the backpack could only act as a blunt, down-filled shield.
Now I’m definitely jealous. Undeterred, I pick my camera and we collectively shuffle towards the mystery footprints I passed. Not even two steps in, the forest shakes with a low, angry rumble. I will remember that earth-deep sound reverberating in my chest for the rest of my life.
Boo, motherfuckers! 🦌
Everyone whips out their bear spray, heads frantically spinning to locate where he’s been hiding, watching and waiting for us to make a move.
I spot him through my camera lens, munching away at the crisp snowy foliage. Once he realizes I’ve got this long black machine pointed at him, he picks up his bulky, imposing headpiece and points it straight at me too.
He’s going to charge us. We’re standing between him and the female caribous. It dawns on me that if I had not paused for those few moments back at Amethyst Lake and came back immediately, we would have actually crossed paths. I might not have gotten the pictures to prove it but at least there would be scars (in the best case scenario).
Having snapped a few acceptable shots, we collectively (belatedly) agree to back away slowly until his earth-rumbling grunts tapered off.
We set up camp right where we stood, tents together for extra protection. We only moved in pairs, with bear spray, to the cooking and toilet areas throughout the night.
Finally filling up our tummies, we laugh about our crazy encounter — so that’s why this place is called Surprise Point!
Day 2: Surprise Point Campground to Amethyst Campground (5.6km)
Come back later to read more!
