The Skyline Trail: Backpacking with Trail Runners
September 12 - 14, 2021
The Skyline is the most famous backpacking trail in Jasper and notoriously difficult to book. 2021 was a traumatizing experience for all who spent the entire day (8 hours for me!) fighting the Parks Canada reservation system. Either I was very lucky or very prepared, because I managed to snag all 7 of my planned trips down to the exact dates and campsites with extra spots for friends.
My friend Nick joined us mid-September for the 44km Skyline Trail hike over 3 days and 2 nights. Since vacation time is very precious, my partner Jimmy and I combined it on the same trip as Tonquin Valley for 7 days straight of backpacking!
Skyline was one of the first bookings I made knowing it would be too physically challenging unless we got these two sites: Snowbowl and Tekarra.
Day 1: Trailhead at Maligne Lake to Snowbowl Campground: 12.2km
Map from Parks Canada
Day 1: Trailhead to Snowbowl (12.2km)
We met up with Nick in Jasper and dropped his car at the north trailhead, continuing on to start at the southern Maligne Lake trailhead. Without 2 cars you can easily hitchhike between the trailheads.
Nick is significantly faster and fitter than us so he got to model in many of my landscape shots before we lost him entirely.
The trail was very muddy, which did not bode well for my speedy friend who opted for trailer runners on his first ever backpacking trip. His feet were soaked within the first kilometer but that never slowed him down or dampened his spirits. What a trooper!
We quickly passed 2 empty campgrounds before reaching Snowbowl, which was clearly the favorite for everyone on the trail. The few remaining sites were quite muddy so we buddied up on the best remaining pad of dirt.
We LOVE the open air communal poopers in Jasper because they hardly smell. The path to the toilet usually approaches from behind so you can quietly turn back if you see that it’s occupied.
There is always 3 seats but don’t worry about someone trying to sit beside you (unless maybe you’re really good friends). This is designed so that Parks Canada doesn’t need to come haul out barrels until all 3 are full.
Day 2: Snowbowl to Tekarra (18.2km)
All the best views are on Day Two and we prayed that the weather would cooperate. Leaving Snowbowl the sun had begun to do its magic on the landscape.
Snowbowl sits between Little Shovel Pass and Big Shovel Pass. We stopped at Big Shovel Pass for a snack break and fun photos as we marveled at how barren the path was ahead.
After crossing the surreal moonscape we started descending into the valley. This valley acts as the “escape route” if the weather prevents you from continuing up “The Notch” or the section we just completed if going the other way.
Unfortunately this means we just lost a bunch of elevation before the final push onto the highest point of the Skyline Trail.
We trudged higher and higher, unsure of where the trail was leading us. The mountain range ahead didn’t appear to have a clear saddle. Do we have to climb over that entire thing?
This beautiful lake appears out of nowhere and I’m sad that we decided to take our snack break early on. Clearly this group knew what’s up.
The trail switchbacks over the rock field and as we grind up the mountain. It’s a mind-numbing push to the top and I couldn’t imagine attempting this in a storm. There is just nowhere to hide.
Made it to The Notch, the highest point on the Skyline Trail!!!
Wait where’s Nick?
Zoom in super tight on that last photo above my head and you’ll see a human speck at the very top of Notch peak. Now that’s truly the high point!
Jimmy and I are too exhausted to go any higher so we took a break at the signpost. Doesn’t hurt that the views are spectacular!
From The Notch we could see Mt. Edith Cavell, Marmot Basin, and a tiny glimpse of the Ramparts in Tonquin Valley where we’re headed next! While we couldn’t see the town of Jasper yet, we knew it was just around the corner because our phones started buzzing.
There’s cell service in the backcountry! Jimmy texts our friends who are driving up from Calgary tonight to join for Tonquin Valley, urging them to wear waterproof hiking boots. He also receives a random phone call from his dad and shows him the views as we continued tracing the Skyline.
Light and shadow danced across the exposed ridgeline. We considered how lucky we were to be here, not soaking wet or cold and not sliding down a sheet of ice in mid-September.
It was hard to keep your eyes ahead when the next few kilometers look like this. Rays of light broke through to shower the Athabasca River valley. I never realized you could see the majority of the Skyline trail from Highway 93 just south of Jasper.
We each hiked at our own pace to fully enjoy the crux of the Skyline views. I make sure to go in the middle so that the boys can be in the photos facing forward and backward.
We reached this incredible overlook towards the other side of the Skyline with two glittering pale alpine lakes.
I pretend to walk in that direction because it looks epic, though there is no known trail.
But then I change my mind and pose on the other side. Yes this is still the view!
I decide that it’s only going to go downhill (physically and visually) from here, so I set up the camera on some rocks to capture the mandatory group photos. We’re a sexy crew!
The wind was strong so we hurried along. Before we began the big descent, the town of Jasper finally makes an appearance.
Mt Tekarra is this prominent peak that our next campsite is named after, so we know we’re heading in the right direction.
Now that we were only focused on getting to camp, the well-maintained switchbacks descending into the valley felt like running in circles. There were plenty of obvious shortcuts that Parks Canada tried to dissuade us from taking. So far I had been extremely impressed with how well maintained this trail is and we certainly didn’t want to contribute to any future repairs.
After tumbling gracefully down the boulder field, we raced across the valley floor. I recall passing a number of other backpackers on this section which means we were truly tired and hungry.
Are we there yet? The sun was beginning to move behind Mt Tekarra. Hiking in September means you’re always worried about being able to set up camp before dark.
18 kilometers later, we completed Day Two of the Skyline Trail! Everybody was in high spirits from the most perfect day ever.
Good night!
Day 3: Tekarra to End (13.7km)
We knew that the last day of the Skyline trail would not be very exciting, as it mostly follows a service road down to the parking lot. We took our time making breakfast and saying goodbye to this gorgeous view of Mt Tekarra from the designated food area.
After packing up camp and suiting up to go, we found ourselves momentarily confused. None of us had seen the trailhead leading out of here.
Someone eventually realizes that the trail continues from across the stream we’ve been staring at this whole time. And we had just laced up the boots dammit!
Too stubborn to take off our socks first thing in the morning, all of us decide to find our own hopscotch pattern. Pretty sure Nick’s trail runners got soaked again.
The Skyline trail continued to deliver. I was completely blown away by the unexpected beauty and fiery fall colors for the next 5km.
I could have used a few more hours up here. Maybe a picnic too.
At last we emerged next to the Signal campground along the service road. I took no more photos at this point as we literally ran for 8km downhill, taking care not to bust up our poor knees.
